Trip Summary

Total Miles - 4,688
Total Days - 16

Mileage:
Betsy I - 37.96 MPG
Betsy II - 34.81 MPG





Comparison:
Betsy I - 1500cc, 737 Lbs
Betsy II - 1700cc, 884 Lbs

Diners, Drive-ins and Dives:
Visited 5
Open 3 - Food was good!


The road magnifies events. When they are good, they are really good; when they're bad, they can be really bad. The days in the cold and rain in New England were fairly miserable, though I was prepared and dressed for most of it. The time spent looking for and not finding, and replacing my lost oil filler cap was not where I wanted to spend my time and worry, but these events were more than made up for by visits to great friends Bob and Karen, and Claye and Sylvia; and the great weather days like the ride down the eastern shore of Delaware, the ride with Claye through the beautiful Virgina countryside, and wonderful, friendly Tennessee.

The journey is the reward.

Day 15 - Home

442 Miles today

Got up early and hit the road for home and my 7:00am tee time tomorrow. I'm sure my friend Fleeter (Claye) is unbelieving at this; I can get a new bike and go home instead of riding until the last minute of my vacation. But, there's method in my madness. I'll play golf then clean up the bike and go for a ride. Best of both worlds!

Not much to report on this ride, other than Betsy performed very well. I really like that 6th gear and the cruise control. I had a throttle lock on Betsy I and it worked okay, but only for short relief spells off the throttle. Hills, in either direction, caused the gravity-dictated speed changes one would expect. In the past I said I wouldn't pay $600-$1000 to have longer spells of relief off the throttle. But, I guess I have now, huh? I like it.

After buying the bike I went online to record the new bike information for insurance purposes. I was unable complete it because they kept requiring me to enter an option for trailer accessories, something I don't have, nor want, and would not let me continue without this extraneous information. Concerned that if something happened they wouldn't pay off any claim I called during a break today. Imagine my surprise when the guy told me my insurance would double, that's 2X, because I've "moved up in class." I told him I'd probably be "moving to another insurance company." Such absolute C-R-A-P only happens in the world of insurance. They are continually trying to maximize their revenue (an honest goal) by creating risk pools, then finding some way (a dishonest practice) to place any changes into the higher risk pool therefore 1) reducing the overall actuarial risk for that pool and 2) improving their revenues and, therefore, profits. But what would one expect from an industry that has such stalwart members as A.I.G.?
What's going to happen is I'll go find another carrier who will, as this one did, lowball me to get the business then increase the premiums year after year, or whenever I make any change they can then move me into "another class." Please, please don't tell Momma I'm an insurance company executive, she thinks I've been running a whorehouse."

I'll summarize the trip in mileage and particulars later. Right now I'm unwinding and glad to be doing it. Not really glad to be home...that means working again. Nasty word, that working.

Jerry

Day 14 - Little Rock, AR

540 Miles today Woke up in Sweetwater, TN (Cost of Living Index .7), not very far from Knoxville. Seems I had some difficulty getting away from that place. The weather forecast for the entire day was raining if one took the southerly route back to Texas. This led to a more westerly direction out of Sweetwater. It wasn't all new road, I'd come down US64 when I went to Gettysburg last year, but it's good road and not slab. Plus, there was some pretty good (and pretty) road to be had in getting there. Plugged the following into the Garmin and took off: Dayton, Gruetli-Laager, Belvidere, and Memphis. That got me the roads I wanted. And, one has to see a place named Gruetli-Laager, doesn't one? Evidently, Gruetli was settled by Swiss colonists shortly after the civil war. The majority didn't stay long because of the rocky, poor soil, but enough held on, at least until 1880, to enable Grundy county (home to Gruetli) to have the largest Swiss population in the state in that august year. (Perhaps it was August of that year). Laager was a railroad stopover, initially known as Henley's Switch in 1918, and the two merged in 1980 not missing the opportunity to hyphenate a name that's both unique and useless. Okay...we all now know more about this place than we need. But, in its defense, it is certainly a pretty area. Countryside near Gruetli-Laager Pulled through to Lawrenceburg just afternoon and wanted some pie and coffee to tide me over. As stated above, I'd already decided I was going to eat ribs in Memphis and I didn't want to not be hungry for that. I pulled into a little restaurant with a lot of cars, including police vehicles, parked outside. I have found the latter to be an absolute guarantee of good food and low prices. I found further corroboration of an old thesis of mine: Tennesseans are among the nicest people in this country. It was very busy; theirs obviously being one of the favorites of the town. But, when I explained I was only looking for pie and coffee she was on it right away, coming up with a surprise: Blackberry Cobbler. How often do you see that on a menu? For those who want to know why it is rather rare, just talk to people who have picked blackberries. First, you're going to get stuck. They have thousands of nettles and they irritate like hell. But, for me, the big reason they deserve to be rare is how much rattlesnakes like to hang out in blackberry patches. If the world's supply is waiting on me to wade into a big briar patch they will be short a lot of blackberry cobbler. "Please don't throw me in that briar patch" is not reverse psychology to me. It's a fervent wish. Anyway, after getting me the pie she was worried that the coffee might be a little old and asked if I'd like to wait on a fresh pot. I checked it out and it was fine. After the examples of lack-of-service I'd seen over the past two days trying to get the *&(**% GPS installed on this bike, I had forgotten what it was like. In any event, she was a very nice lady and provided excellent service so I left a very good tip, a kindness that came back to me a minute or so later. When I went up to pay, this very nice lady was talking to the customer in front of me. She seemed very upbeat, positive, and friendly, just as I've found Tennesseans over the years. The lady who served me had told me to tell her what I'd had and she'd ring it up. After the guy walked away I said, "Hi, I had the great Blackberry Cobbler with ice cream (I failed to mention that, didn't I?) and coffee." And she said, "That's nice...it's on me." When I looked at her in disbelief she repeated it. I protested, saying thank you, but you're in business to make money and my experience there said I would want you to, but she wouldn't hear of it, so I met a couple of great, friendly Tennesseans. Not the first time either. So, if you're in Lawrenceburg, TN, and want a good buffet meal at good prices and with absolutely wonderful people in there to meet and serve you, go to the Taste of the Town Restaurant. Just short of Memphis it started drizzling rain again so I decided to see if there was a Kawasaki dealer nearby who could change the oil in Betsy (yeah...we've bonded). I was sitting at about 550 and there is a checkup at 600 miles. Another friendly Tennessian working in an ice house told me there was one back down the road about five miles on US18 out of Bolivar, TN. She then called them to confirm they serviced Kawasakis and would be happy to have a drive-in customer (see, I told you there are people who understand incremental revenue). I pulled in and talked with another bunch of friendly people while the mechanic went over the bike and changed the oil and filter. Unlike some people we know he didn't leave the oil filler cap off when he finished. Got back on Betsy and made it to Beale street. I was looking for a BBQ called the Rendevous but couldn't find it, not even on the Garmin, so I went into B.B.King's Blues Club for some ribs and music, and got plenty of both. The food was good and the harmonica-player cum lead singer was really good. I'm currently in Little Rock considering a 7:00am tee time Saturday morning at Jersey Meadows.

Day 12/13 - Knoxville, TN area

239 Miles

Didn't make many miles in the last two days, but, as they say, changes have occurred.

Sylvia R. was in Texas for a family function when I visited Claye. The good news is Claye and I talked last night and she reported Sylvia was spending the night in Sevierville (actually Kodiak on the I-state), TN just down the road. So, upon hitting the road I called her and we managed to meet at a restaurant between our two night stops for a cup of coffee and a catchup. Like Claye, Sylvia's just a nice person and a treat to be around. I have to be on my best behavior, though. She's a law officer and there's these things in my past you know. I'm of no interest to Homeland Security, but there was that Snickers bar thing back in 1955, and the hotel towel in '93. I've also woken with little or no memory of what occurred the night before, just flashes of pink boas, silly puttey and lots of red, perhaps lipstick or nail gloss, but you never know for sure do you? I've been on the run ever since. Will they ever leave me alone? Haven't I atoned at all? Hasn't my life meant anything? Well...no.

I had known upon leaving for this trip that I would have to replace the rear tire somewhere down the road. The econ major in me won't let me change a tire with 2500+ more miles on it so I committed to making a change mid-trip somewhere. Claye noticed when I was at her house that the back was wearing past the wear points, so it was time to do it. Unfortunately, I like white walls on Betsy and they are virtually impossible to find. Then, if you find one it won't match the front so one has to consider breaking economic "law" and changing that one before its time. Which relights my fire on motorcycle tires: 1) Why does the back wear at twice the rate of the front? And 2) if they make tires for cars that go 50,000 miles why can't they for motorcycles. I get somewhere around 9-10,000 on the back and 16-18,000 on the front.

Anyway, after making about three separate stops looking for tires I pulled into Moutain Motor Sports in Sevierville, TN about 2:00pm. I ended up buying two new tires. They were attached to a different motorcycle.

Sitting in the showroom was the new Kawasaki Voyager I have been lusting for in exactly the colors in which I was interested. They are so new, and the recession is so strong, and dealers are real tight with their inventory, I've never seen one except in pictures on the web. That, along with a couple of unanticipated expenses, was the reason I haven't bought one. But, what the hell, you only live once and if you don't spend it the bankers, Wall Street, or the government (or a combination of all three) will get it anyway.

So...the long and the short of it is Betsy et mort, Vive Betsy II.



I gotta be honest, sitting here tonight I miss Betsy. She was extremely reliable, and hauled me through 48 states and over 54,000 miles.











Betsy II. 2009 1700cc Kawasaki Voyager. 6-speed transmission, cruise control, faring, built-in radio. Rides smooth and powerfully.










Very bright spots. That's a good thing.



















Brake light and light bar in the rear...that's a good thing.


I'm happy.







Problem...there's always a problem...the dealer was unable to mount my Garmin GPS. Not the end of the world, but after doing Alaska and something like 48,000 miles using paper maps I grew very accustomed to GPS and the technology very quickly. Plus, it liberates you on the road. You can try out all sorts of roads and routes and know you can find your way back to where you want to be without the gene-busting act of having to ask for directions.

So, I farted about Knoxville all morning and half the afternoon trying to find someone, then the parts, then someone else to set up the Garmin. Finally I drove back to the dealer and had them wire the electricity for me and I jury-rigged a mounting to get me home here at the motel tonight. It's not pretty, but I have my GPS and my XM radio back. Hey, neat thing, I can play the latter through an FM channel on the built-in radio on the bike...I'm happy...I'm happy.

Heading home, but going to flower-sniff a little on the way. It's about time, too. Between the weather and the day lost buying a bike and setting up a GPS I'm ready for some treat. Of course, thunderstorms are forecast all the way back to Texas for the next three days.

Day 11 - Wytheville, VA

271 Miles today

Claye and I hit the road about 9:30am this morning on our way to Chancellorsville Battle site. As most know, I'm a history buff and this is always a treat for me.







The fat kid at Chancellorsvile. Not far from here is the spot where Stonewall Jackson was shot by his own troops, and the house in which he died a few days later.










My guide, host, riding idol and friend Claye.










Claye rode with me as far as Lynchburg, home to the famous Reverend Jerry Falwell. I even rode out of town on a road named after him. I remember my thoughts when it was announced that Falwell had died on May 15, 2007: I wonder who was more surprised on the morning of the 16th, the Devil, or Mr. Falwell?
Following Fleeter through the Virginia countryside. Great ride.

(FYI - Fleeter was the name of Belle Boyd's horse during the civil war. Ms. Boyd, of course, was a famous southern spy.)









We stopped for lunch in Gordonsville at the Inwood Restuarant. Absolutely one of the best hamburgers I've had in years. Tasted just like those I used to get at Holder's Cafe growing up in Tavares, Florida.










Claye turned back toward Fredericksburg and I pushed on through Roanoke and stopped in Wytheville for the night. Tommorrow: pointing back toward Texas...but not exactly sure which route I'll take.

Day 10 - Fredericksburg, VA

432 Miles today

Got up bright and early, packed up and headed off to see if I could get a couple of shots of Valley Forge. I couldn't. My GPS took me right to the blocked off road supposedly leading to the park. I turned and followed the detour signs until they disappeared, then I asked Mr. Garmin to find it for me. After passing the same intersection three times from different directions I said, "Forget this," or something similar to that, and turned back toward Philidelphia with breakfast on my mind.

My destination was yet another diner from the show Diners, Dives, and Drive-ins, the Silk City Diner in downtown Philadelphia. My good luck continues as I drive up to it and see a closed building with no cars in front, or people inside. So far I'm three for five on diners. Two have been closed. In the major leagues such an average would be worth a fortune. Out here, for diners, it's still hungry and looking.

I swung down to Independence Hall, snapped a couple of pics, then took off for Wilmington, Delaware and breakfast.





























Had a good breakfast in Wilmington just missing a drenching little thunderstorm which had just passed through the area. Then I headed south to the "Eastern Shore." This is a peninsula which, on the east, faces the Atlantic, and on the west the Chesapeake Bay. As you can see from the map it goes from wide to narrow ending in a 17.1 mile bridge/tunnel series going over to Norfolk.

This is really an engineering feat. The northern half cost something like $200M while the southen half was >$250M. The cost difference has to do with the different time periods in which they were completed.




This is Key West-type bridging...with a difference.












And here comes a difference.












Why expensive tunnels? National defence. The tunnels make it impossible for an enemy to bring down the bridges and trap the fleet in port at Norfolk.










After about 10 miles of bridge and tunnel there is a (very sharp) turn-off promising food and recreation. There is a restaurant and fishing pier available to the public.











There were quite a few fisherpeople taking advantage of the pier. Of course, the $12 toll raises the cost of fishing.









Arrived in Fredricksburg about 7:00pm and met Claye at her house just off U.S. 1 and the Rappahannock River. After cleaning up Claye and I went to dinner and caught up on our rides history. As mentioned in yesterday's blog, Claye is an Iron Butt and one heck of a rider. She also has an excellent blog showing off her excellent photographic skills (and patience).